A long overland footbridge in Gokanosho, Japan. Picture: Supplied. Source: Supplied
Kumamoto Castle in spring, Japan. Picture: Supplied. Source: Supplied
SURROUNDED by unspoilt forest, we traverse the footbridge over a steep ravine to the crystal-clear Umenoki Todoro Falls.
There is hardly a person in sight it feels a world away from the bright lights and crowded city streets of Osaka and Tokyo.
This is Gokanosho on the island of Kyushu. Accessible via a windy, one-lane road that climbs into the mountains, it is considered one of the last secluded areas on Kyushu.
The district is famous for being a hidden refuge for a samurai clan in the 12th century. Luckily, we have a local guide who can easily navigate the area.
As a first-time visitor to Japan, I expected lots of hustle and bustle and there is no doubt that the country is heavily populated. But when you reach this national park, you get the sense that this is the real Japan. The area is remote and rugged, and the locals are especially friendly, with Gokanosho home to several quaint villages.
I am pregnant and feeling a little apprehensive about crossings on the wobbly Momigi Suspension Bridge, which hangs over a pristine river. But the bridge is well worth the walk.
Locals regard the region as the land of fire and water. The historic area has long been a favourite for Japanese holidaymakers and is emerging as a destination for foreigners. Few people speak English so it is really a place to leave Western life behind and become immersed in a different culture.
The food is unique, with an unusual-tasting stuffed lotus root a specialty. Raw horse meat is a local delicacy. I am extremely grateful to be pregnant and unable to indulge.
The city of Kumamoto is the capital. From Osaka it is about a 3 1/2-hour trip on Japan's efficient bullet train.
One of the biggest surprises of Kumamoto is the stunning, manicured Suizenji Jojuen Garden, which emerges out of the end of a mall lined with stores. There is a shrine and a pond teeming with carp, along with a miniature Mt Fuji.
The city's key drawcard is Kumamoto Castle, regarded as one of the most impressive in the country.
Built in 1607, the castle is known for its steep, curved stone foundations designed to prevent invaders.
Despite this feature, however, the main castle's keep and other buildings were destroyed during the Satsuma Rebellion, immortalised in the film The Last Samurai, in 1877. The castle was extensively rebuilt in the 1960s.
One of the original wooden towers remains standing and is open to visitors. Take the many flights of steep stairs to the top for a view of the castle and city surrounds.
Nearby is the beautiful Gyobutei Samurai House, standing among gardens of perfectly pruned trees and raked pebbles.
About an hour away from the city is Mt Aso. It is one of the the world's largest active volcanoes and has one of the world's largest caldera.
On the day we visit, the conditions are good enough to walk right up to the steaming crater of Mt Nakadake.
While you can drive through lush and grassy scenery to within a few minutes' walk of the crater, the concrete shelters are a reminder that this is an active volcano.
There are walking trails for those who have the time and inclination, though the landscape immediately surrounding the crater is rocky and virtually lifeless.
The writer was a guest of Kumamoto Prefectural Government, Amakusa Shimabara Tourism Council and Japan Holidays.
JAPAN
Getting there
Jetstar flies to Osaka from Sydney. A one-way fare starts from $518 from Sydney. See jetstar.com or call 131 538.
Getting around
Japan Holidays offers a seven-day Kumamoto tour, including an English-speaking guide, rail pass, some meals and accommodation.
Escorted tours taking in the Kumamoto area, including Amakusa and Gokanosho, as well as Nagasaki, start from $4250 a person.
The tours include some airfares, accommodation, rail fares, entry fees and some meals.
See japanholidays.com.au or ph (07) 3300 2396.
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